My wonderful neighbor and fabulous cook, the composer, Giancarlo Vulcano performs Eduardo de Pomiane’s charming advice on how to host a dinner party.
—CNQ
“Adored by his public and his pupils, feared by the phoney, derided by the reactionary, de Pomiane’s irreverent attitude to established tradition, his independence of mind backed up by scientific training, earned him the reputation of being something of a Candide, a provocative rebel disturbing the grave conclaves of French gastronomes, questioning the holy rites of the ‘white vestured officiating priests’ of classical French cookery.” Elizabeth David, Pomiane, Master of the Unsacrosanct
Hollandaise sauce from French Cooking in Ten Minutes: Or Adapting to the Rhythm of Modern Life Edouardo de Pomiane, first published in France in 1930.
The technique of a sauce hollandaise is considered difficult by experienced cooks. In reality, nothing is easier. If you desire success, do as I tell you. You will certainly succeed.
Put a spoonful of cold water, a little salt and two yolks of eggs into a small saucepan. Put this little saucepan into a large one containing boiling water, holding the smaller one firmly. Stir quickly, with a fork, the mixture of water and yolk of egg. This begins to thicken.
At this moment lift the small saucepan out of the water, add two ounces of better cut into pieces the size of a nut. Put it back into the hot water. Stir the mixture all the time with a wire beater. The butter melts and the sauce becomes creamy. Lift it out of the water a little. Add two more ounces of butter cut in pieces. Stir. Put it back into the water. The sauce thickens.
Keep on stirring. Dip your finger into the sauce. If it burns, lift the saucepan out of the hot water. Stir fifteen seconds more. The sauce is ready. It should be thinner than mayonnaise. It should, however, coat a spoon which you dip in and lift out again. If you like the flavour of lemon, add a few drops at the beginning of the operation, before the butter. You are then much more likely to be successful with your sauce.
I have never succeeded in spoiling a sauce hollandaise. Follow my example.
This sauce is a luxurious accompaniment to boiled fish or tinned asparagus warmed in its own juice.
